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How to trim artichokes, Roman style

The idea is to remove everything inedible in the kitchen. You will be tempted to comment superciliously about the waste. Don’t. Just deal with it. Anyway, the Anglo-French tooth-scraping method leaves a big pile of garbage on the table. We don’t.
Once you learn the basic principles of artichoke trimming, you will  Read More 
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Vignarola (Roman spring vegetable stew)

Today la vignarola is a veritable cult object in springtime, when, for a magic few weeks, fresh fava beans, sweet, sweet peas, and locally grown globe artichokes are available simultaneously. But as recently as the mid-1980s, it wore the mystique of a traditional dish kept alive by a few dedicated souls. Its rediscovery,  Read More 
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Sheila Levine

I was saddened last night to learn of the death of Sheila Levine, retired Editorial Director of the University of California Press, and the editor responsible for the Press's publication of Encyclopedia of Pasta and Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds: Recipes and Lore from Rome and Lazio. Oretta and I were devoted to her, and  Read More 
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Bolognese

Yet another thread about bolognese on Chowhound inspires me to post the recipe from SAUCES & SHAPES.

Ragù di carne (bolognese)

For the condimento:
2 ounces (60 grams) pancetta
1 onion, white or yellow
1 carrot
1 rib celery
3 tablespoons (40 grams) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, preferably lightly fruity
5 ounces (150  
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Department of language, manners, and mores

I am always saying that people don't think about what words really mean. Here's the latest example.

For the umpteenth time a shopping website has interrupted my browsing to propose I participate in a survey. I always read the message in case they are offering a little thank-you prize, like some airline miles or  Read More 
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Sugo alla marinara

You've all seen the video of Lidia's recipe by now. Here's the one from "Sauces & Shapes."

For the condimento:

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound (450 grams) very high quality canned peeled tomatoes with their juice or red, ripe sauce tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, peeled and seeded
at least ½ teaspoon salt
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Minestra di fave

Here's a nice winter recipe from "Sauces & Shapes" (page 258):

MINESTRA DI FAVE (dried fava bean and pasta soup)

for the soup:
1 pound 10 ounces (750 g) dried fava beans soaked 24-48 hours (depends on age)
1 large white onion, finely chopped
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt

Before serving:
8 ounces (225 g), or less according to taste, small  Read More 
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Pizzagate

There's a thread on Chowhound (Food Media board) about Mayor De Blasio's use of knife and fork to eat pizza. Here's what I wrote yesterday. Link to the thread follows.

I grew up in Manhattan when pizza, at least outside Little Italy (AFAIK), meant a slice eaten with your hands standing up. I used  Read More 
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More about the timballo

In I think 2004, or maybe ought-three, I was working on a book about Rome for Williams-Sonoma. They wanted a baked pasta and the first thing that came into my head was bechamel-mushrooms-prosciutto-peas, why I don't know. Then I said, oh no that's too retro, but by then they had said they loved the idea  Read More 
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Il timballo di San Silvestro

For some years now Franco and I have been inviting friends, and their friends, to come on December 31 for a buffet supper. As New Year’s bashes go, it’s pretty tame, but we pop the midnight corks on our roof terrace just opposite the Colosseum and watch the fireworks that successive city administrations,  Read More 
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